Sub amp12/29/2023 ![]() Lotsa air moving for a realistic price!Ĥ. RE Audio subs and US Amps are the same company, and their mid-range to higher priced stuff is an awesome bang for the buck value. 5 or 1 ohm load depending on the quality of the amp. You can also bridge a pair of DVC REs on down to a really nice. And dual tens can push a ton more air than any single 12" or 15". The reason for that setup instead of say a single 15" or 12" in a ported box is because you tend to get a much "tighter" controlled punch from 10s without being too boomy. I personally prefer a nice pair of RE Audio subs in a sealed enclosure since the Fit is a hatchback that allows all of the energy to get from the cargo area to my ears. This will make the biggest (in my opinion) difference in sound quality over the OEM setup. The the crossovers got mounted on velcro inside the botton part of the door, behind the mid.ģ. In the back doors, I installed both in the lower location, because the Kicker comps have the ability to mount the tweeter into the middle of the midrange. The front pair are separate and in the stock mounting locations low and high in the door. I installed a set of Kicker SS 6.5" components speakers. And prices aren't that bad at all for a high quality JVC head. Seriously, even though you say you don't want or need to swap the head out, it will make a world of difference. Right now I have a nice single DIN JVC CD head with IPod interface until a spring for the Eclipse double DIN, touchscreen, Navi, DVD unit later on. Simply swapping it out for a higher wattage/channel amp'ed head unit, with built in EQ controls will make the stock speakers a LOT more livable. Tools you will need: plastic trim removal tools, wire stripers, crimpers, philips head, a set of sockets (i think you only need a 10mm and an 8mm), socket wrench, zip ties, wire cutters, and probably a little radio to keep the tunes playing while you work.1. easy way to check to make sure you tapped into the speaker signal correctly using a high to low conveyer or RCA output converter is that once you have taped into the signal (and if you don't have a multi-meter) get a RCA to AUX cord and plug into the female RCAs you just installed, plug the other side into your phone, play a song, and if you hear music, you captured the signal correctly! but make sure the signal is in phase but make sure you check polarity incase your positive and negative are swapped. ![]() so, if you are just installing a single sub, that would be the how to locate the audio signal. if my memory serves me correctly, one of the twisted pairs is an off white and brownish color, that leads to the passenger front door. each twisted pair leads to a speaker! those are your speaker wires! rule of thumb is that the lighter colored wire is the negative. ![]() However, once you remove the radio and remove the harness, simply cut away the "fuzzy tape" that is wrapped around the wires connected to the harness and you will notice that their are wires that are twisted together. Unfortunately, i never wrote down the wire color or pin location. then just locate the speaker signal from behind the head unit. since you don't want to drill any holes and what not, just get some t-taps for easy removal later on. PAC SNI-15 (sni15) LOC 10:1 Reduction - Sonic Electronix. In order to maintain the factory head unit, like many have said before, you will need a high to low adaptor. here is my link, although i will be making a new thread soon. I just rebuilt my entire system in my Base V and kept the factory head unit, so I'm pretty familiar with the entire car as i have taken it apart nearly 10 times in the course of a few days.
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